Berlin : The Good, the Bad and the Wurst

After a flight of just and hour and a half, we landed at Tegel Airport, just north-west of Berlin. The world famous German precision was immediately noticeable, as we experienced our easiest airport arrival ever. Passport control was at the top of the ramp, another 10 steps and we had our bags, and 10 more and we were outside at the bus stop. A nice change, considering the great trek that's involved with landing at Heathrow or Gatwick.

Winters Hotel is situated in East Berlin, not far from Checkpoint Charlie. Our room was modern and functional, and would rank high up on the list of the quietest places I've ever been to. We heard no car, plane, footstep, or even squeak, and it felt like we were out in the middle of nowhere, let alone in the bustling German capital city.

Since the fall of the wall in 1989, the city has experienced a remarkable regeneration and is now the home of young artists, musicians, and generally people looking to have a good time. The average age in the city is 29, and the locals are as varied as the multitude of museums, with everything from the Museum of Homosexuality, to one purely on JFK. There is an extraordinary clash of old and new, and I don't think I've ever come across the sort of innovation of architecture and design that is commonplace. The negative spin on this regeneration is that Berlin is officially bankrupt, owing in the region of 60 Billion Euro's. Those in charge seem to be more concerned about the look of the city than it's welfare, with recent cuts to healthcare and education. The people seem pretty positive, but I just hope that the mayor, Klaus Wowereit, who recently said that 'Berlin is sexy but poor', manages to save a somewhat sinking ship.

A while ago, while visiting Porto, I set myself the task of tasting 3 of the local specialities. Berlin was a bit easier. I decided to concentrate on the currywurst and the beer. The weather over the weekend was perfect, with blue skies and mild conditions. We made the most of this, and explored with vigour. This was made easier by the incredibly efficient and extensive public transport network. I think the Berliners take this system for granted, and have forgotten how to use their own built in transport systems. They seriously have got no idea how to walk in crowds. There is a fine of 10 Euro's for crossing a road in Berlin when the red man is showing and I think they should rather use these resources to fine people for walking like idiots. We nevertheless managed to negotiate our way around town, taking in the most famous tourist attractions like the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and the Berliner Dom (cathedral). Our last stop for the day was the TV Tower, which is the 2nd highest tower in Europe, boasting the fastest lift in the world. We arrived at the top just before sunset, giving us the opportunity of having an aerial view of the city by day and night, and we relaxed with a quiet Berliner Kindl (pilsener) at the bar.

By now I was a bit peckish, and we made our way back to the hotel, past the Brandenburg Gate (which is a must see at night) and past 2 currywurst pit-stops (this I will discuss in a bit more detail later on). The unbelievable peace and quiet of our hotel room was calling, and after a power-shower we were fast asleep.

Our plan on sunday was to learn a bit more history, so we joined an organised walking tour. Even though we'd already spent a day exploring, the tour took us to spots we hadn't come across, and it was hugely informative. We visited the Holocaust Memorial, situated between East and West Berlin, and explored it's truly unique layout. It is an ordered collection of 2711 concrete plinths, of different heights, covering an area of 19,000 sq/m. The combined surface of the plinths has gentle undulations, and these hide the depth of the ground in the centre of area. Peter Eisenman, the architect who designed the memorial, originally designed the layout with the intention that visitors would write graffiti like messages on the plinths. This was rejected by the powers that be, and the blocks were covered with an anti-graffiti paint. This paint was bizarrely supplied by a company that has links to the Nazi regime. A memorial to one of the most terrible crimes in history, the attempt to completely wipe out a people, is not an easy thing to achieve. It may be abstract and controversial, but my view is that it achieves it's goal of forcing the visitor to feel something about the Holocaust. As Jackie and I strolled between the columns, we became seperated, and this feeling of disorientation was my take on the memorial.

We continued our tour, and passed a famous car park which apparently was the site of Hitler's bunker. This was the scene of Hitler's death, which makes for an interesting story. He firstly tested the efficiency of the cyanide on his dog. He and his wife, Eva Braun, then took some, and just for good measure he also shot himself in the head. He had ordered his guard's to burn their bodies, but they were not completely destroyed, and Hitler was later identified through his dental records. There is a rumour that Hitler's skull is being used as an ashtray somewhere in the Kremlin.

We also passed the ex-Luftwaffe headquarters (which is now the Tax Office), and one of the sites of the book burnings that saw 20,000 non-germanic books being burnt by students. In the 6th picture above, if you look closely you can see bullet holes and shrapnel on the pillars. There is a huge debate at the moment whether these pillars should be patched up, or if the remnants of war should remain. The walk ended just after 2, and we found a restaurant and settled in for some lunch. I ordered the Eisbein, and what arrived a while later was something special. The combination of rich, tender, slow-roasted pork with the sauerkraut, the hot mustard, and the dark beer is certainly a match made in heaven. Jackie enjoyed her lunch, and washed it down with the local beer called Berliner Weisse. It is pretty sour and acidic, so the done thing is to add some raspberry syrup.

My search for the perfect Currywurst ended at Curry 36, just before bedtime on saturday evening. A roadside spot, swarming with locals, and off the tourist trail , it served up my favourite sausage experience (JW here: we had to travel by tube to get to this far flung take away shop). A couple of places add a curry paste, but this place chucks on some curry powder, and the rest is history.

We both thoroughly enjoyed our time in Berlin, a place that has been through so much, and not so long ago. It is still bruised, but is rapidly healing and evolving into one of the trendiest and most dynamic cities in Europe.

South African Sport moving in the right direction

A while back, after witnessing defeats at both Landsdowne Road and Twickenham, I did a bit of sulking about the state of South African Rugby. I came away from both games feeling that the potential was there, but that something was missing. I now realise that something was MORE Sharks Players! You all know that I don't like to brag, but let's take a quick look at the Super 14 Log. Keep it up Sharks.

I must say that I am deeply saddened by the Australian Cricket Team's poor form of late. They've lost their last 4 ODI's, and their players seem a bit confused (or maybe they're just missing Mr Warnie). I wonder where the SA Team is in the International One Day Rankings?

Porto's sweet success

The city of Porto, in Northern Portugal, has been on our destination wish-list since a Portuguese wine tasting a few years ago. The setting, food, and most importantly the port, created a picture in our minds that we wanted to explore.

Porto is situated in the Duoro Valley and is the official home of port. The vineyards are further east of Porto, along the Duoro, all the way to the Spanish border. It is such a great location for producing port because the valley protects the vines from the cold, creating an ideal micro-climate. The soil is made up mainly of slate, and this absorbs the heat of the sun during the day, and gives it off at night. The result is fairly constant temperatures for the vines which optimises the grape's sugar concentration.

The trip from the airport, north-west of Porto, to our central hotel was an easy one - a 30 minute metro ride, followed by a short walk to the 2* Hotel Malaposta. The hotel seemed perfectly adequate, and with a busy weekend ahead, we decided to get some sleep. If friday night's rest failed to renew our energy stores, the hotel coffee most certainly did. We bounced out on saturday morning, and strolled down the narrow streets to Torres Dos Clerigos, the tallest tower in all of Portugal with views over the whole of Porto, the Duoro River, and the city of Gaia (across the river). Looking out into the distance I couldn't help noticing the names of the big port houses.

Our self-guided tour then took us past the Se Cathedral, an impressive structure built above Ribeira (the old district), and on to the Church of San Francisco, which is decorative extravagance at it's best. We arrived at the river's edge, and were tempted into joining a '5 bridges boat cruise'. One thing that stands out in Porto is the architecture, and the quality and quantity of bridges crossing the valley is a good example of this. One such bridge is the wrought-iron Dom Luis 1, built by a disciple of Gustav Eiffel. Our cruise took around an hour, and it was a great way to see not only the river, the valley and the bridges, but also to appreciate the way that Porto and it's neighbours fit together. An added bonus to the cruise was that it included a tour and tasting at Calem Cellars. The afternoon of port endulgence was about to begin, but not before some lunch. We found a canteen-like local hangout where I decided to try the Francesinha, one of the 3 local specialities I had set myself the task of tasting. I ordered, and the waiter, who had a concerned look about him, told me that it was a very spicy dish. I told him that I had never tried it before, but that I should be OK. How was he to know that I was a curry-munching Durban boy who isn't even afraid of the hottest Bunny Chow. The dish is like a glorified steak sandwhich, with spicy sausage, ham, cheese, and a special sauce. As far as spice goes, it was a bit on the mild side, but very enjoyable nonetheless.

Our afternoon was spent exploring the streets of Gaia, touring cellars and tasting port. We visited Croft, Ferreira, Calem and Offley, and discovered some of the secrets of these port producing guru's. Although slightly on the repetitive side, the tours were incredibly interesting, with each one offering a free tasting at the end. Our highlight was Ferreira, with an informative tour, attractive cellars, and wonderful port.

After a few hours in port heaven, we made our way back through Porto and up onto a hill. The strenous 45 minute walk took us to Solar do Vinho do Porto, a bar that I had read about. With a menu of port that brought tears to my eyes, and a view of the valley to match, it was the perfect place to relax and contemplate the days activities.

Our contemplation was not attending to the call of my stomach, so we made our way back down into Porto, to a small restaurant overlooking the river. My second local dish was the Tripas a' Moda do Porto, which is a very rich stew of tripe, beans and sausage. Extremely wholesome and moreish, the ideal way to settle a port filled interior. Jackie's grilled sole was done to perfection, and our meal and surroundings could not have been better.

The weather on sunday was overcast and drizzly, and we welcomed a relaxed start to the day. After breakfast we jumped on the hop-on/off bus tour, but decided not to do too much hopping. We completed the whole route, which took us out of Porto and along the coast, in about an hour and a half. The temptation of port was too strong, and we once again found ourselves sipping on the magic potion. We were not alone. It seemed that every local and their family was doing the same thing. I reckon the Portuguese have got something good, with a true appreciation of the importance of family time.

My 3rd and final local dish was Bacalhau, or salted and dried codfish. A dish not specific to Porto, but famous throughout Portugal, mainly eaten around Christmas time. It had been cooked over coals with a little olive oil and garlic, and was served with raw onion, tomato and boiled potatoes. Without a doubt, my favourite.

The Douro Valley that protects it's vines from the elements does the same for the character and charm of Porto. A fantastic short-break destination, with true Portuguese culture and the art of port-making at it's very best.

Heavy Snow

The weather-man's prediction of heavy snow in London for today was spot on. Plenty of the white stuff and major disruption to travel a certainty. I've just made my way into town, and the snow was still coming down quite heavily. Nice and squelchy underfoot! I reckon we must have had about 6cm in Putney.

"News release
6 February 2007
Heavy snowfall expected to cause disruption
The Met Office is forecasting a period of heavy snowfall for Thursday. Many areas of southern UK could see up to 5 cm, with as much as 15 cm in the Midlands; this could possibly lead to disruption on transport networks.
The band of heavy snow is most likely to affect southern Wales, the Midlands and central and southern England, including London.
The main focus of concern is for Thursday morning, but forecasters are also predicting some snow showers today and tomorrow.
It is important during these potentially severe weather events to check the latest forecast. The detail can often be very important and can change at short notice. The best weather advice and warnings can be monitored on the Met Office web site.
Transport networks are key aspects of the country’s infrastructure and the Met Office works with other major organisations in helping keep the UK moving."

New and Improved Catman Picture

Catman : good or evil?

A few days ago, I once again witnessed Catman in action. This time it was midday, and he was as loud as ever. I took another photo which I will post as soon as I get the chance.

I have been trying to establish this chaps intentions, and have a theory that I wish to share with you. I think that he has taken on the task of protecting the world from Avian Influenza (only problem is that he might have contracted Mad Cow Disease along the way).

After seeing him in action again, and realising his truly noble cause, I decided that he could do with a suitable costume. I looked around a bit, and came across the one above. I have yet to sell him the idea, but I'm sure he will be very keen. I also plan on getting these action figures into the stores ASAP.

Catman

I recently got the fright of my life while walking home from the station after work. There was a bearded indian gentleman, hiding behind a bush, making aggressive cat noises at every passing vehicle. I thought this may be a one off incident, but last night I came across the same chap, doing the same thing. I decided to take a picture of him (above) from our flat. He is slightly blurred in the image because he gets quite expressive and excitable. You can clearly see him in the centre of the image wearing a white beanie.

Pelicans in St James' Park?

A while back, Jacks and myself were walking through St James' park when we came across a group of pelicans. Apparantly they have been struggling to sustain themselves on fish so have been looking to other sources of nourishment ie. PIGEONS. I can't imagine a pigeon going down as well as a fish, so I don't see them hanging around too much longer.