Half Way

We've just reached the half-way point of our trip and have put together a list of some highs and lows. We'll start with the most important thing.


Brad
Jackie


Best Beer

Cusquena Negra (Peru)

Speight's Gold Medal Ale (NZ)


Best Wine

Cousino-Macul Cab Sav (Chile), McGuigans Botrytis Semillon (Aus)

Irongate Reds (Aus)


Best Meal

Cooking a whole lamb in Torres del Paine (Chile)

Brad's fish at the campsite north of Puerto Madryn (Argentina)


Best Restaurant

El Boliche de Alberto (Bariloche - Arg)

Pura Vida (El Calafate - Arg)

Best Adrenaline Activity

Skydiving over Fox Glacier (NZ)

Best Cultural Experience

Homestay on Amantani (Lake Titicaca - Peru)

Funniest moment

Abby's comment at the Pinga Festival in Paraty. There was a guy who was always exposing himself for photo's and Abby walked up to him and said that she'll get the twins out the next time he has a photo (maybe you need to know Abby for this to be funny)

Brad slipping down the bank at Elephant Rocks in his skydiving shoes

Favourite overnight activity

Amazon Jungle Lodge (Peru)

Doubtful Sound Cruise (NZ)

Most interesting person met

Teresa, a woman in Sangolqui, Ecuador who has 3 children, runs a funeral parlour, is a hairdresser and spends a huge amount of time helping an organisation that feeds poor children in the community. She cut Jackies hair for free and was walking around her house looking for a gift for us

Our La Paz tour guide, a young guy who gave us really interesting and honest political views and a great idea of life in Bolivia

Biggest frustration

Trying to get into Bolivia on a South African passport

Travelling around South America with a certain couple

Best 1 day activity

Death Road Biking (Bolivia)

Sandboarding in Huanchaco (Peru), White Island (NZ)

Favourite animal encountered

Pink River Dolphin (Amazon - Peru)

Southern Right Whale (Puerto Madryn - Arg)

Favourite Camping Spot

The beach north of Puerto Madryn with whales passing 10m's from the shore (Arg)

Torres del Paine (Chile), Haast Beach (NZ)

Favourite Accomodation

El Calafate Hostel (Arg)

Halse Lodge (Noosa, Aus)

Favourite transport

The bus to the Colca Canyon (a child on my head and a woman sitting on my lap)

Pai, our camper in NZ

Favourite off the beaten track destination

The Bolivian Altiplano

Maitai Bay (NZ)

Country worth going back to

Argentina

Most frightening moment

Watching Jacks jump out of a plane

Skiing backwards down a slope in Bariloche

Worst guide

Our 1 day tour of Rio guide. The first thing he said to us was 'I don't know what the f@#$ is going on' while running down the bus towards us

Favourite walk

Tongariro crossing (NZ), Queen Charlotte Track (NZ)

Colca Canyon (Peru)

and last but not least,

Favourite toilet with a view

An early morning view from our first campsite on the Inca Trail

Paracas National Park

The Whitsundays - Sailing with Mick

The Whitsundays are a collection of islands off the Queensland Coast, a place that we had planned to explore on a backpacker tour. We couldn't believe our luck while going through the help exchange site, coming across a chap that was looking for some help on his yacht. We contacted Mick, set up dates and after an overnight bus ride to Airlie Beach we met him at the Sailing Club. All of our bags were stuffed into the boot of his car and with only bare necessities in hand we set off on a tender to Yandeena, his 42 foot yacht.

Mick is 50 years old and after a divorce 3 years ago decided to buy and live on a yacht. He works at a nearby coal mine and has a roster of 4 days on/ 4 days off. He's absolutely mad about sailing and loves showing people his backyard. We sailed for 3 days and besides helping with the good stuff, like steering and deck duties, we did absolutely no work. We only took some beer and wine and Mick took care of everything else (and even did the cooking).

Our first afternoon was spent sailing through the Hook Passage to Border Island, where we moored for the night. Day 2 took us through the Whitsunday Passage in strong winds and a big swell. Mick showed us Hill Inlet and Whitehaven beach and then we retraced our route back through the passage and around Pinnacle Point to Maureen's Cove. Here we put on our stinger suits (protecting us from the deadly jelly-fish sometimes found) and spent an hour snorkelling amongst amazing coral and wildlife. We spent the night in Stonehaven Bay, a place with great sunsets and good protection from the persistent south-easter.

The sail back to Airlie Beach was fantastic with calmer seas, a great wind and a couple of dolphins surfing alongside. After thanking Mick and saying our goodbyes we walked back into town, shocked that we'd just had an unbelievable 3-day adventure that cost us nothing.

Fraser Island

At about 70km long and 30km wide, Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world. Although it's made up of only beach sand it has an amazing vegetation with ancient rainforests and huge freshwater lakes. A really unique environment that is worthy of it's world heritage status.

The most difficult thing about visiting the island is deciding how to get there with self-drive or guided options and about 50 companies marketing themselves as the best. We went for a 2 day guided trip with a company that matched our needs and budget and had good reviews.

Our tour started with a 1 hour ferry ride across to Moon Point, the island's most westerly point. We set off across the island and very quickly became surrounded by the unique vegetation. Amazing tree grass and Saw-toothed Banksia's whose seed pods need fire to open. As we bounced our way along the bumpy sand track we were also informed of the island's hazards and I must admit that even us African's were slightly concerned. Imagine what the pommies were thinking. The sea is full of sharks and they have a great selection of venomous snakes but most of my attention was focused on a particular spider. The Fraser Island Funnel Web is one of the world's most poisonous and had become firmly placed on top of my things to avoid list.

Some of the first Europeans to live on the island were only interested in cutting down it's trees. The Aboriginal people, who had lived on the island for around 5000 years, took offence to this and clashes began. In a very short space of time a law was passed stating that Aboriginals were no longer permitted to live on the island and most of the trees were cut down. Luckily the loggers were not complete idiots and when they came across an area of rainforest now known as Yidney Scrub they decided that it was too beautiful and left it alone. A short walk through the virgin rainforest gave us the chance to appreciate it's untouched beauty and the fact that it's all growing on sand.

The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring the northern part of 75 mile beach (the eastern coastline) with stops at Eli Creek (freshwater), the Maheno shipwreck, Indian Head (with a viewpoint offering evidence of why swimming in the sea is not a good idea) and Champagne Pools, a tidal pool and the only safe saltwater swimming spot. We shared a tent with a fairly large spider but after a good braai and a couple of beers we managed to get some sleep.

The next day we travelled south and then back inland passing through a forest and stopping at 2 freshwater lakes. Lake Birrabeen, 1 of our stops, is a perched dune lake, 1 of only 60 in the world (with 35 being on Fraser). These lakes are surrounded by dunes and filled entirely of rain water. They have a waterproof floor that is made up of a mud-like mixture of vegetation, sand and water. The combination of white sands and clean water makes for a really special place that was a great spot to spend our last hour and a bit on the island. After checking our shoes and bags for any freeloading funnel web's we hopped onto the ferry and made our way back to the mainland.

Crikey, what a beauty!

What good luck! We were 1 hour away and the Australia Zoo was celebrating Steve Irwin Day. The ride to the zoo featured a documentary about Steve's younger days that brought a tear or 2 to the eyes of a certain wife of mine. Five minutes later, after entering the zoo, it was all smiles. What a fantastic place. Evidence of just how much the Crocodile Hunter loved his animals. We met all the stars, from the cuddly Koalas to the even cuddlier Wombats and the crazy Cassowaries to the even crazier Tasmanian Devils. A hugely interactive place, brilliant for kids (even big ones).

At 10:30 we'd seated ourselves in 2 of the 5000 seats of the Crocoseum. The stadium was packed, mostly with Australians, the majority in Khaki. Festivities included songs by Steve's daughter Bindi, a few numbers by Olivia Newton-John and a croc show hosted by Terri and Wes (Steve's wife and his best mate). The day was full of a lot of things but there was no emotion whatsoever. The main focus was on wildlife and conservation. It seems that the Irwin's have moved on and are carrying his work into the future. The day ended with a lively performance by an aussie rock legend named Jimmy Barnes that got the crowd going and even caused a few out of control twists from the pensioners in the audience.

Noosa

Two and a half hours north of Brisbane is the coastal town of Noosa. Good for the entire spectrum of budgets and welcoming at the same time. We enjoyed it so much that we spent 5 nights. We stayed at the Halse Lodge YHA and things got off to the perfect start with a Braai and Band night. We'd met a german chap named Frank in Brisbane and he decided to spend a couple of days with us in Noosa. So, with Frank tagging along like an excited Dachshund, we thrived in the relaxed vibe of the town.

Our first morning was spent surfing under the watchful eye of our teacher and ex-world champion Merrick. We all had a whale of a time and I think I may even be slightly hooked. The next day I spent around 4 hours in the water, catching a few waves but mostly flapping around the backline like an injured walrus. That along with the fact that I had a bleeding foot (that I was somehow catching on the back of the board) got me slightly concerned about the local shark population, so I decided to leave the water.

Noosa really does have it all with cheap take-away cafes to beachfront gourmet 'where is the rest of my meal' restaurants. It has genuine down to earth folk and those who live in their own very important worlds, floating around above the earth on golden carpets.

Brisbane and the Gabba

On the way up to Brisbane we spent a rainy night and day in Byron Bay. It's often described as a sort of hippie 'joint' and I must concur. A few hundred people arrived a couple of decades ago with some cash in their wallets and a box of cigarettes each. It seems that they're almost out of money because most of them spend their time sitting at the bus stop bumming ciggies off tourists and singing about better days. If you (like us) can overlook this, you will discover a few good beaches and a relaxed vibe.

A bus ride later and we'd arrived in Brisbane and besides an exciting confrontation between Jackie and a useless girl at the Greyhound desk we were happy to be there. We would be seeing a new city, staying at Tony's place (my assistant bestman from Moose's wedding earlier this year) and most importantly watching the Aussies take on the Sri Lankans at the Gabba.

The day of the cricket arrived with a cooked breakfast and a few beers provided by Australia's shining beacon of hospitality - Tony. We were at the grounds in good time but with the players leaving the field after the first over because of rain I was ready to test my hari kari technique. We kept ourselves occupied and well refreshed and it wasn't long before the players returned. A great day of cricket passed by as fast as the snap of Murali's arm and as evening turned into night we became permanent fixtures at the neighbouring Chalk Hotel.

Our Aussie mates (from London), Ben and Michelle, are from Brizvegas, as they call it. Taking their advice we explored some of the sights and even got to the venue of their wedding that took place in May last year. We rate the city pretty highly, with trendy restaurants, original modern architecture, big shopping centres and a river transport network that is great for tourists and efficient for locals.

Stay tuned for stories on the cricket at the GABBA and Steve Irwin Day at the Australia Zoo

A walk from Bondi to Coogee

Bondi is probably Australia's most famous beach. After observing it from all angles I would comment that besides having surfer-infested waters, it is pretty cool. We decided to make the most of a good day and walked along the coast from Bondi to Coogee. I started with a sausage sizzle, Australia's dissappointing attempt at a boerewors roll, and we set off along the walkway. The beginning of the walk had the added bonus of an annual 'Sculpture by the Sea' exhibition which was occasionally attractive but mostly bizarre. Bronte Beach was the allocated fish burger stop and by the time we got to Coogee I was ready for a swim, which turned out to be a lot colder than expected.

Hunter Valley

There are a number of companies that run wine tours into the Hunter Valley. We left it a bit late and the 3 that we got in touch with were all fully booked. The forth, called Boutique Wine Tours, sounded a bit snobbish but turned out to be superb. Our first stop was Irongate, an estate owned by a Brit named Roger who gave us our tour and tasting. He made loads of money somewhere and bought the vineyard because he loves wine. He sells only from his cellar door and doesn't enter any of his wines in competitions because he reckons he doesn't need someone else telling him that his wines are good (and they certainly are). We visited Tempus Two, McGuigans, Brokenwood and then the family run Ernest Hill. By the end of the day the group had become slightly raucous. All except for a 26 year old chap from Florida who (according to himself) could drink unlimited quantities of Absinthe but seemed to struggle with the wine and passed out at our last stop.

Sydney Fish Market

The awesome market that appears to be owned by China is a fantastic stop for anyone who loves food. They even have steak but the highlights are the huge crayfish, the rock oysters and the fresh sashimi.

The Blue Mountains

Two hours west of Sydney is Katoomba, a town in the heart of the Blue Mountains and the place we decided to spend a night. The mountains are so named because at certain times of the day and in the correct conditions they take on a blue tinge that is caused by oils released into the air by the many eucalyptis trees of the area.

It's a hugely popular day trip destination with every Tom, Dick and Harry joining a tour from Sydney. Echo Point, with it's main viewing platform, was so full of them that all the flies had become irritated and buggered off. Luckily the lady in our hostel told us about a walk that would keep us away from the crowds. It took around 4 hours and with great views, beautiful dense forest and colourful birds (the likes of I've only ever seen behind bars before) we were more than happy.

Sydney

After spending 2 months in the predominantly rural parts of New Zealand landing in Sydney was like bellyflopping into an iced water bath. It's a bustling metropolis built around a beautiful harbour. It reminds me a bit of London with less busses and more flies. It has good rock oysters, cold beer, some great beaches and an opera house worth writing home about. It also has a bridge that is so cool that before he made his name in Hollywood, Crocodile Dundee was one of the many people who was paid to paint it.

After only a day in Australia I stumbled upon the answer to a question that has troubled me for years. Why are there flies? While travelling through South America I read 'Down Under', Bill Bryson's hugely entertaining take on Australia. He talks about the flies and their ability to get into the mouth or nose of unsuspecting victims. After witnessing this first hand, their purpose finally came to me. People who have a tendency of talking to much are more likely to swallow flies.

Just what the Dr ordered

Two weeks away from the tourist trail was a great break and a chance to recharge. In exchange for about 5 hours of work a day we got to stay in a little flat with views of the Akaroa harbour. It took a while to get used to the idea of waking up to an alarm again but we really enjoyed helping out at the lodge. We started every day by feeding the birds and then doing a quick walk through the grounds, cleaning the peacock poo off the decks. We did quite a lot of work in the gardens and I endured a 2 day weed-eating marathon. We made beds, cleaned windows and fed the cows. We joined a grape and grain tasting and I played a game of paintball (who knew shooting kiwi's could be that much fun). We met 1 of the classic characters of our trip so far - the donkey, who looks exactly like the noble steed from Shrek and is just as funny. He takes the cows for a run every afternoon and when you enter his paddock he comes sprinting over to see you.